The Look: The dramatic smoky eyes at Dior were a nod to the roaring ’20s. “The look is rich and beautiful,” says Pat McGrath, creative design director, P&G Beauty, who used shadow, liner, and mega lashes to create a spectrum of looks, more real-world-applicable (and seductive) than in seasons past.
Seen At: 3.1 Phillip Lim, Dior, Pucci, Zac Posen
DIY: Coat lids with a primer to prevent creasing. Next, using a black eyeliner pencil, “draw in around the eye, smudging it out with a brush to create smokiness,” McGrath says. Follow with a bright shadow on the lid.
Make the classic look pop with green shadow. McGrath used a rich emerald at Dior, and at 3.1 Phillip Lim, makeup artist Lisa Butler blended jade shadows into a soft, smoked-out shape.
The Look: Blush migrated north and south this season. Despite the mild temperature (and indoor setting) at Marc Jacobs’ fall show, François Nars bestowed a “frostbitten” flush below the cheekbones, with blush reaching to the jawline. At Versace, McGrath swept rouge high on the temples, creating rosy, “painterly” profiles that were “fresh—like a supermodel.”
Bold brows frame exaggerated eyelashes. McGrath, who traded with her everywhere to bleach eyebrows eyebrow pencil in this season, recommends filling arcs with a pencil, then the environment with the appropriate powder.
Where to look: More than Black Swan Swan Lake, this decline is the updo "for a tousled texture and roughness, that air of confidence and attitude," says Eugene Souleiman, Wella Professionals global creative director, who crafted nodes at Narciso Rodriguez.
Bejeweled hair accessories, bun pinned on to Chanel, to immediately relaxed evening look appropriate.
Most Laid-Back: Navy Nails
Look: Jewel tones cap hit both this season, but also the fingers. Shades of greige retire (finally!) and reach for the deep indigo with glittering spots on a dark autumn Go to Polish.
It gives view "60 feel, but stylized," says Guido Palau, Redken creative consultant who carved the deep parts left for Alberta Ferretti.
TS-2 cutting comb; FEKKAI Advanced Full Blown Volume Styling Whip, L'Oreal Paris Elnett Satin Extra strong hold hairspray, Rene Furterer Paris Naturia dry shampoo
Pair with: Woven wire lengths
Looking Anjelica Huston in the 70 years, John Frieda global creative consultant Luigi Murena combed from crimped, low ponytails for "soft, fluffy volume" at Gucci.
Backstage: Prabal Gurung Spring 2012 by NYMag
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